A good Australian century

Initially it was somewhat disorientating to return to a home and a room and an en suite bathroom and have lots of belongings and camp components scattered about the place. Where did I put my pants? Where’s my toothbrush? Where’s the bag with the flammable gas? But, in four very beautiful and captivating days it did not take so long to feel at home. There were chores – such as fixing the car windscreen, laundry and more laundry, shopping and banking. But then there were some others, such as visiting Brodburger, Koko Black, Mee’s Sushi, Ona Coffee, walking up Red Hill, dipping in the pool, picnicking in the park and celebrating the 100^th birthday of Canberra. All of which were very much less annoying.

I arrived back on Saturday and the last night of Enlighten, where some of the capital’s landmarks turn projector screen and receive various illuminations of light and pattern. Proving everyone in Canberra likes a freebie, the place was busy, but as is the way with Canberra there is always enough space for everybody. And it was satisfying to see so many people out, on a pleasingly warm night, to support the event.

 

The weekend continued apace with a barbecue and pool party in Forrest before a lovely Canberra birthday bash. A sedate, lazy public holiday Monday afternoon picnic with friends under one of the many leafy trees in one of the many leafy parks suggested little of the bustle and buzz further around Lake Burley Griffin. Here, most of Canberra and many visitors were in harmony, soaking up the sun, the music, the art, the ice cream, the games, the alcohol, the humanity and the heart and soul of the nation. Surely what has been built, designed and evolved from a dusty sheep paddock into a place where people live and mostly thrive is a fine cause for celebration, something of which all Australians can be proud? And if not, well I think that says more for the inherent unsophisticated whininess of some Australians rather than the actual state of the capital city. And, with plenty of BYO fun and partying on the inside, it’s getting better every day.

 

One thing that all Australians can agree on is a common obsession with fireworks. In Sydney they have fireworks for the drawing of a meat raffle, or to celebrate the purchase of a fifth Range Rover in which to transport Felicity and Barrington the five hundred metres it takes to get to their expensive private school. In Canberra it’s a bit more refined, and a rather arty (some would say slow) build up, was swept away in an all out explosion on the senses. I wasn’t so sure there would be much of Canberra left after the finale, but the bridges held and thousands of people dutifully filed across them to sit and wait in their cars in a very orderly and civilised fashion.

 

Forgetting the bombast of a centenary, beneath it all was a beautiful amphitheatre surrounding a sculpted lake that is there every day of the week. For me what makes Canberra is its environment, sitting amongst, rather than against the landscape, living and breathing and thriving in the bush. I am in love with it every time I park off Mugga Way and push steadily upwards, disturbing Eastern Rosellas from the grass and generating a dart of colour; raising the heads of the kangaroos grazing in the hollows as I tread; listening to a pair of Crimson Rosellas chirruping across majestic white gum trees; marvelling at the punky yellow hair of the Cockatoos as they mess around; passing others who smile and always say hello; and gazing at the vista from the top of the amphitheatre. I leave a little of my heart on Red Hill, and will just have to make sure I go visit it again someday.