Friday, December 07, 2012

A tale of two cities

Pleasingly summer has hit over the past couple of weeks, albeit with the occasional blip back into winter. So far, touch wood, it seems to be better than the previous few years. Which means everyone is moaning that it’s too hot and is pining for cooler weather like the previous few years... I have found that the one downside of working from home is perhaps the absence of office ice block style air-conditioning but there is a pool twinkling in the corner of my eye.
 
Out of the office I have had the opportunity to make important decisions and change my mind again. This being which is the better city – Sydney or Melbourne? A few weeks back, spending a sizzling Saturday meandering around Melbourne I had settled the decision in my mind, Melbourne it is, mainly due to some indescribable vibe floating around in the hipsterphere. But then, last weekend, the ferny gullies and golden coves of the northern bushlands of Sydney pulled me back.
 
I decided, while fumbling my way through laneways and drinking cooling thick shakes that both Melbourne and Sydney are different creatures, and which one is best depends what you are up for at any particular point in time. To explain in a very misogynistic way (which seems to be the in thing these days), think of Melbourne as a slightly distant, not obviously beautiful, bookish kind of woman, confident and content in herself. She’s not obviously flaunting herself, though has some initial outward attractions, but these quickly fade and you are wondering what all the fuss is about. But something deeper takes hold, and you end up finding her utterly charming, especially when she’s in a sunny mood. By contrast Sydney is the voluptuous slapper putting it all out there for anyone and everyone. She provides instant gratification, accompanied with lots of sweat and congestion. But spend a few days and she begins to grate. Until you turn the corner again and get confronted with more of her raffish beauty.


Sydney is better on the eyes, Melbourne better on the ears. For this, one is blessed with geography, the other with design. Melbourne’s grid like CBD lends it that slightly American air, and I see wanky developers are latching on to that with superior apartment living in ‘Westside’ and ‘Upper Downtown South Bank’ type names (I guess the ‘Paris End’ is less trendy these days). It has an undeniable humming backing track perforated by tram tracks and bells. It feels like a city.
 
Sydney feels more like an attempt to create individual patches of idyllic beach and bushland living sporadically and reluctantly meshed together to form a city. It’s stunning geography is also its biggest challenge, its beautiful bays and gullies both dividing and obstructing. It’s endless westlessness an entirely different world. However it has beaches – and not St Kilda like beaches – but sweeping ocean sands like Maroubra, harbourside glitz like Shark Bay, and unnamed, unreachable coves of Middle Harbour and the Hawkesbury. These are rejuvenating when the grotty humidity builds, despite the mass eastward migration that occurs on such days.

 
Does it matter which is best? Well, frankly, no. Both should be pretty proud of themselves, though not in that back-slapping self-satisfied way which leads to complacency. Essentially they are modern, dynamic and, importantly, have plenty of good coffee and fine food. But then so does Adelaide. And Canberra, which itself should be celebrated for what it is, rather than denigrated for what it isn’t as it turns 100. A maturing, warm, slightly quirky woman, in whose company you feel entirely comfortable. Separation is tough.
 

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